I bought these beads a few years ago for pennies on the dollar. It was one of those awesome sales I can't resist even though I really try to follow this advice to prevent overspending:
Buy ONLY what you need for the project at hand.
Sometimes you just have to jump on a good deal, though. As I was goofing around with a cool Pinterest crochet lace tutorial, I tried these amethyst colored glass briolettes and realized they might not be best for the project.
BUT, and this is where craft fails turn into craft successes, I loved the way they looked with alternating pairs of 6/0 seed beads. I loved that the necklace reminded me of the classic Swarovski collar necklaces from the 1950's.
It's simple and repetitive, but elegant, I think.
The only problem with waiting so long to use them is that I don't know whether these are crystal or just plain glass. I'm guessing glass. Either way, the faceting adds a bit of sparkle in the light.
View jewelry-making media, such as polymer clay, beading, wire wrapping, and a combination of fun techniques!
Saturday, January 5, 2013
Resined Shrink Plastic Necklace Tutorial
Remember back in childhood when Shrinky Dinks were all the rage? I used to love coloring them in and then watching them shrink into a firm charm in the oven. Well now they're back, but better than ever. Instead of having to color in pre-printed designs, you can grab a generous set of 10 large sheets at a local craft store for under $10.
I bought these at Michaels with my 40% off coupon (you can download the Michaels app to your smart phone for unlimited coupon use. Plus they offer a 15% off coupon for teachers!)
Caution! Buy the "Frosted Ruff N' Ready." I started out with the Crystal Clear and found out you really cannot use them unless you sand them down first with a fine grit sandpaper.
Envirotex Two-Part Resin
Pencil
Sharpie (or permanent marker): fine or ultra fine
Color Pencils
A couple sheets of white paper
Scissors
Hole Punch
A cheap or old paintbrush
A plastic spoon to measure resin
A small paper cup
An oven
A box or something to cover your project from dust while it dries
Jump rings
Chain
Clasp
Jewelry Making pliers & wire cutters
1. Find an image you would like to turn into your pendant or charm. If you want to create one yourself,it works best to draw it on another sheet of paper, and then trace it on. I trace first with a pencil and then retrace with a fine or ultra fine Sharpie. If you are good at tracing, just use a permanent marker.
2. Color in your design. I used Prang color pencils: nothing fancy.
Check the bottom of this blog to see more about which types of media you can/cannot use to color them.
3. Cut out your project. I used small craft shears. Then punch a hole where you want to hang it. If it's a large charm, consider punching two on the sides instead of one at the top center.
I used a small hole punch, but you can use a regular size.
4. Find a cookie sheet or pan that is completely flat at the bottom. I usually put a piece of printer paper under the charm to protect the pan and to make it easier to take the charm out.
5. Cook according to directions. The charm will usually curl up, but be patient. It will flatten back down. It's so fun to watch it shrink, so turn on the oven light and call the kids over!
Look at the change cooking makes! Not only will it shrink to a third of the size, but it'll darken. Keep this in mind when you choose your colors. I wish I had either chosen lighter colors or pressed lightly while coloring, but it still turned out alright.
In the packet there is a gauge so you can see how big to make your pendant and how much it will shrink. Very handy!
6. When you pull it out, you might want to use something to flatten the charm out if it isn't completely flat. I just used a box of pasta and held it down for 10 seconds.
7. When the charm is cool, mix up some resin according to manufacturer's instructions. Apply a little at a time. If you get bubbles, you can use a straw to blow them gently out.
Caution! Anything that touches the resin will be ruined. I used a cheap, old paintbrush and a plastic spoon to apply the resin. Anything that touches the resin will have to be thrown out, except the cat (see below).
Don't apply too much resin as it will spill over the sides as it levels. Let it dry for 24 hours and then reapply if needed.
Be sure to cover your pieces as they dry. Pets and dust can junk up a beautiful project. You can prop up an upside-down shoe box or plastic container over the top. Make sure air can enter so the project dries.
8. Use wire or jump rings in the holes of your piece to attach it wherever you want it. I used jump rings to attach it to silver chain. Add your clasp and voila! Done!
Do NOT use water color markers or crayons!
Always cook your shrink plastic with the colored side up!
Double check that you've punched your holes BEFORE cooking. Oops.
If the paper ends up sticking to your charm, you can rinse it in water and scratch the paper off the back with your fingernail.
If your hole is covered over in resin, use a bead reamer to re-open it. I usually use a toothpick to clear the hole as it's drying.
Project now stuck to kitty's tail? This happened to me. I had to throw it away after carefully extracting it from the cat. Wish I had known about covering my pieces before this happened! Me-OW!
Using resin is the best way to coat a piece, both for aesthetics and to protect it from skin oils while wearing. I do not recommend gloss (I tried Sculpy Gloss) because some will change the color of your design and it ends up looking rough and ragged.
I bought these at Michaels with my 40% off coupon (you can download the Michaels app to your smart phone for unlimited coupon use. Plus they offer a 15% off coupon for teachers!)
Caution! Buy the "Frosted Ruff N' Ready." I started out with the Crystal Clear and found out you really cannot use them unless you sand them down first with a fine grit sandpaper.
Materials Needed for Dragonfly Necklace:
Shrinky Dinks Frosted Ruff N' ReadyEnvirotex Two-Part Resin
Pencil
Sharpie (or permanent marker): fine or ultra fine
Color Pencils
A couple sheets of white paper
Scissors
Hole Punch
A cheap or old paintbrush
A plastic spoon to measure resin
A small paper cup
An oven
A box or something to cover your project from dust while it dries
Jump rings
Chain
Clasp
Jewelry Making pliers & wire cutters
Instructions:
Finished Dragonfly Necklace |
1. Find an image you would like to turn into your pendant or charm. If you want to create one yourself,it works best to draw it on another sheet of paper, and then trace it on. I trace first with a pencil and then retrace with a fine or ultra fine Sharpie. If you are good at tracing, just use a permanent marker.
2. Color in your design. I used Prang color pencils: nothing fancy.
Check the bottom of this blog to see more about which types of media you can/cannot use to color them.
For special effects, you can color on a paper and then place the Shrinky Dink on top. |
3. Cut out your project. I used small craft shears. Then punch a hole where you want to hang it. If it's a large charm, consider punching two on the sides instead of one at the top center.
I used a small hole punch, but you can use a regular size.
4. Find a cookie sheet or pan that is completely flat at the bottom. I usually put a piece of printer paper under the charm to protect the pan and to make it easier to take the charm out.
5. Cook according to directions. The charm will usually curl up, but be patient. It will flatten back down. It's so fun to watch it shrink, so turn on the oven light and call the kids over!
Uncooked next to a cooked Shrinky Dink. |
Look at the change cooking makes! Not only will it shrink to a third of the size, but it'll darken. Keep this in mind when you choose your colors. I wish I had either chosen lighter colors or pressed lightly while coloring, but it still turned out alright.
In the packet there is a gauge so you can see how big to make your pendant and how much it will shrink. Very handy!
6. When you pull it out, you might want to use something to flatten the charm out if it isn't completely flat. I just used a box of pasta and held it down for 10 seconds.
7. When the charm is cool, mix up some resin according to manufacturer's instructions. Apply a little at a time. If you get bubbles, you can use a straw to blow them gently out.
Caution! Anything that touches the resin will be ruined. I used a cheap, old paintbrush and a plastic spoon to apply the resin. Anything that touches the resin will have to be thrown out, except the cat (see below).
Don't apply too much resin as it will spill over the sides as it levels. Let it dry for 24 hours and then reapply if needed.
Be sure to cover your pieces as they dry. Pets and dust can junk up a beautiful project. You can prop up an upside-down shoe box or plastic container over the top. Make sure air can enter so the project dries.
8. Use wire or jump rings in the holes of your piece to attach it wherever you want it. I used jump rings to attach it to silver chain. Add your clasp and voila! Done!
Coloring Media
You can use color pencils, acrylic paints, and paint markers.Do NOT use water color markers or crayons!
Troubleshooting & Preventative Tips:
Always cook your shrink plastic with the colored side up!
Double check that you've punched your holes BEFORE cooking. Oops.
If the paper ends up sticking to your charm, you can rinse it in water and scratch the paper off the back with your fingernail.
If your hole is covered over in resin, use a bead reamer to re-open it. I usually use a toothpick to clear the hole as it's drying.
Project now stuck to kitty's tail? This happened to me. I had to throw it away after carefully extracting it from the cat. Wish I had known about covering my pieces before this happened! Me-OW!
Using resin is the best way to coat a piece, both for aesthetics and to protect it from skin oils while wearing. I do not recommend gloss (I tried Sculpy Gloss) because some will change the color of your design and it ends up looking rough and ragged.
The Spastic Beader Gets a Clue!
Okay, I'm one of these people who start a dozen projects and then finish only a few. The problem is, if you have outstanding jewelry projects, they can be easily ruined by crazy cats who play with the string or by losing beads when they aren't stored properly.
I tried using shoe boxes, paper bags and Ziplock bags. No go. As I was cleaning out my cabinet, I found these plastic bins and thought, wow, if I cut my bead mat to line them, these bins would be perfect. They stack, so I could accommodate several projects!
One problem: beads could fall out of the little slats. Then I remembered my daughter's recent fetish: colored duct tape. I grabbed a roll and made these:
I still have to watch out for Delilah (above) and Vinnie, but this works so much better than previous attempts. And since I stack them on my craft table, I am also reminded that I have projects to complete--I'm a bit of the out of sight, out of mind crafter.
I tried using shoe boxes, paper bags and Ziplock bags. No go. As I was cleaning out my cabinet, I found these plastic bins and thought, wow, if I cut my bead mat to line them, these bins would be perfect. They stack, so I could accommodate several projects!
One problem: beads could fall out of the little slats. Then I remembered my daughter's recent fetish: colored duct tape. I grabbed a roll and made these:
I still have to watch out for Delilah (above) and Vinnie, but this works so much better than previous attempts. And since I stack them on my craft table, I am also reminded that I have projects to complete--I'm a bit of the out of sight, out of mind crafter.
Bead Buddies and Other Clamps
When stringing beads, it's so helpful to use some kind of clamp at the end. This ensures the beads don't slide off the end of the wire as you add more.
But why not just crimp the end? Why put on a temporary clamp? Sometimes you find that as you near the end of the project, you need to add or subtract a few beads to get the right look or the correct length. If you are using a repeated pattern that has no extra variables, that's fine. But using pendants or certain patterns will make the necklace lopsided if you only change on side.
Love these!
But why not just crimp the end? Why put on a temporary clamp? Sometimes you find that as you near the end of the project, you need to add or subtract a few beads to get the right look or the correct length. If you are using a repeated pattern that has no extra variables, that's fine. But using pendants or certain patterns will make the necklace lopsided if you only change on side.
Love these!
Tuesday, January 1, 2013
The Versatility of Polymer Clay
Polymer Clay has to be one of the most amazing substances for crafting! Below are two techniques I have been working on: backfilling and wire wrapping with metallic pigment coloring.
Backfilling is a cool but sometimes tricky technique in which you either stamp (in the case below) or carve into clay. Next, you use a transluscent liquid polymer with coloring or mixed with metallic pigment to fill in the indenture from the stamp/carving. Since carving takes a lot of practice, I just stamped into the clay. I then mixed the TLS (translucent liquid Sculpy) with gold Pearl Ex powder and used a toothpick to ease it into the stamp indent. After cooking the creations, I covered in two coats of resin.
The seahorse, one of my favorites so far, was accomplished by rolling out black Premo polymer clay in a pasta machine, cutting it into the seahorse shape with an Exacto knife, and then bending craft wire, which I placed onto the seahorse. I used a piece of glass from a picture frame to press it evenly into the clay. I then flicked metallic powder onto the seahorse for coloring and fired it up in the oven per the manufacturer's instructions. When it cooled, I used Envirotex resin, a 2-part mixture, to coat it for the shiny effect. After 24 hours I repeated the resin coating. Turned out great, I think!
Backfilling is a cool but sometimes tricky technique in which you either stamp (in the case below) or carve into clay. Next, you use a transluscent liquid polymer with coloring or mixed with metallic pigment to fill in the indenture from the stamp/carving. Since carving takes a lot of practice, I just stamped into the clay. I then mixed the TLS (translucent liquid Sculpy) with gold Pearl Ex powder and used a toothpick to ease it into the stamp indent. After cooking the creations, I covered in two coats of resin.
The seahorse, one of my favorites so far, was accomplished by rolling out black Premo polymer clay in a pasta machine, cutting it into the seahorse shape with an Exacto knife, and then bending craft wire, which I placed onto the seahorse. I used a piece of glass from a picture frame to press it evenly into the clay. I then flicked metallic powder onto the seahorse for coloring and fired it up in the oven per the manufacturer's instructions. When it cooled, I used Envirotex resin, a 2-part mixture, to coat it for the shiny effect. After 24 hours I repeated the resin coating. Turned out great, I think!
Wire with metallic pigments pendant.
Next blog posts: 1. Idea for storing unfinished jewelry projects to avoid damage.
2. Tutorial on making shrink plastic necklace.
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